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Sabato De SELL, SELL, SELL Sarno (Gucci)

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Love it or hate it, there was no denying that Gucci had a ‘look’ under Alessandro Michele. When Kering bravely decided he was for the chop before sales slid too much, stepping into his snaffle loafers was an unknown, Sabato De Sarno.

Eight months later and we got our first glimpse of the Italian mega brand’s new direction. What Gucci does is hugely influential. Too often, after a period of strong growth and design momentum, a creative director comes in and does a complete 180 degree switch as though to say everything before it wasn’t right. Tisci did this at Burberry.

De Sarno has done the right thing, he’s cleaned it up and made it feel cool but kept all the much loved Gucci tropes running through it. Even some of Michele’s later sparkle.

Titled ‘Ancora’ – it can mean still, again, anchor in Italian – with matching Mark Ronson soundtrack, this is exactly what the suits at Gucci towers will have wanted and it will sell, sell, sell. Zara HQ must be having a meltdown right now with so much to copy.

The new Gucci woman is effortless. She dressed with the accessories doing most of the talking from the loafer platforms, Jackie bags and Loewe-esque chunky jewellery, reminding consumers Gucci is a fine jewellery brand now. Just be mindful of the sprained ankles in those teetering clogs.

There are many items to drill down on and desire in this new collection. It’s completely wearable but not boring. The Gucci girl has lost the geek, but kept the chic. She’s relaxed and refreshingly contemporary. These are the kind of clothes that make cool people look cooler and as such will be demand from the top down trend leaders. It has a polish that feels the perfect balanced between ‘dressed’ and easy. Let’s hope they return to the best of Italian quality.

Can’t wait to see the men’s next year.

Gucci, Milan Fashion Week, Sabato De Sarno, Spring 2024